Puerco Ahumado at La Comida, Downtown Las Vegas

Puerco Ahumado at La Comida, Las Vegas

While authenticity hounds might look askance at this new Mexican 'concept' by Michael & Jenna Morton just off East Fremont Street in Downtown Las Vegas, there's at least one dish on the menu by Chef Pablo Sanchez-Ortiz (desde D.F. y Michoacan) worth screaming about--in a good way.

This generous portion of mesquite-smoked pork shoulder in a rich, mole-like adovada sauce was smoky but tender, juicy, rich and complex (and I ordered it at 11 pm!). It might even be one of the best pork dishes in Las Vegas right now. So good you won't even care about the prefab tortillas.

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